Pakcik Zul has been selling satay for 30 years. His satay is reputed to be the best in Kuantan. There is a huge crowd every night from 6 pm. Takeaway is very popular. Because of this certain items can be sold out very early. It is a popular outlet and waiting is expected. Starting from a stall on the five foot way he has now expanded into a shoplot with dining areas on ground level and first floors of two shoplots, fully airconditioned on the top floors.

In addition to the usual meats of chicken, beef, mutton, beef liver and beef stomach it also has venison. The meats are at 60 sen whilst the organ meats are at 50 sen a stick. One portion of the coconut leaf jacketed rice, called nasi impit here is RM2.00. It does not come in the usual coconut leaf jacket but just a square chunk with no wrapping, which is convenient. A portion of cucumber and onion slices is RM 1.00. This inexpensive meal can be a good substitute for a Western grill in such bad times where savings is so much. Eating satay with cold beer and wine will be so good but for this you need to takeaway as no alcohol can be found in any satay eatery.

The amount of meat is much more than the average street satay in Kuala Lumpur but not too much like in some fast food satay franchises. The satay are freshly made in four long grills outside the shop by the five foot way. At night you could see the bright lights of the burning charcoals and the takeaway crowd near it as you approach the shop. For any satay the sauce is very important. Unlike most other places, the sauce has little peanut chunky bits as most of the nut has been grounded. The sweet spicy sauce has a subtle taste and is very good on its own. You will need a refill.

We saw many tables ordering the kampong fried rice. I was right in ordering one too. The rice which has just the right amount of oil has generous bits of chicken meat and squid. Shallots, chopped coriander and egg are the other ingredients. Seldom seen in fried rice are several strands of kang kong which gives the dish an interesting design, texture and taste. Thinly sliced cucumber is left on one side. I thoroughly enjoyed this dish.

Satay Zul is at A2600 Jalan Alor Akar 25250 Kuantan. This road branches from the main Jalan Teluk Sisek that starts from Teluk Chempadak where the very popular Kuantan beach is. If you come from the beach the road is at the second traffic light. The burning charcoal grills and crowd outside the shop cannot be missed.

Chuah Soon Guan

Uncle Soon Guan (SG) became a Chartered Accountant to avoid inheriting his father’s business as a noodle vendor which gives only a tough life.

He grew up with operators of all kind of street food (his father’s friends), which has given him an extensive knowledge and love for the subject.

During Chinese New Year 2009 we spent a few days at Hyatt Kuantan and ate Malay food as Chinese food places were closed. Using The Star Food guide we went to Restoran R&R at 54 Jalan Besar and Satay Zul at the Jalan Teluk Sisek and Jalan Alor Akar intersection.

Jalan Sisek starts from Hyatt Kuantan at Teluk Chempadak, the most popular beach in Pahang. It meets with Jalan Besar in town. Shophouses along Jalan Besar are pre-war two storey shophouses of more than 80 years old, all of which still have thriving businesses.

This Malay restoran is more than 11 years old. It was opened by a couple who previously worked in Kuala Lumpur in totally unrelated trades. Rahman was in hospitality whilst Rabina, in language. The restaurant’s name takes after their names. Voted as the only Malay eatery in Kuantan with the highest 3 star by The Star Food Guide they must have employed the best Malay tukang masak ( cook in Bahasa Malay ) in Pahang.

On our first day we lunched on Malay authentic food and their daily spread features more than 30 dishes. We tried curry tenggiri, cow tripe with bamboo shoots in curry, beef liver, daun manis ( used in pan mee ), curried eggs and ox bony meat in clear soup. The soup was hot and the longer it stewed it tasted better. The eggs were not hard boiled but were cracked into the boiling curry to cook. That way it absorbed more of the curry flavor.

As it was the breakfast that we wanted to target, we return the next morning but not early enough at 8.30 am. They open at 7.45 pm but because of the locals’ preferred takeaways, one of their specialty Laksa Pahang was sold out. We tried Lemping Nyiur, Nasi Kerabu and Pulut Uban.

Lemping Nyiur

This is a fluffy savory coconut pancake shaped like roti canai and pan fried in the same manner. It cost a RM1 apiece. Other ingredients are egg and flour. A traditional breakfast fare in the East Coast kampong, it is eaten with sardine sambal like many other dishes due to the abundance of fresh fish from the sea.

Nasi Kerabu

In R&R Restoran, apart from the wok fried grated coconut, there is raw beansprouts garnished with chopped coriander which give the dish a crunchy texture and healthy freshness.

Pulut Uban

Another traditional breakfast fare available at Restoran R&R is Pulut Uban. It is steamed glutinous rice covered with grated coconut in a small pyramid shape, eaten with a few types of fried and salted fishes. This is another inexpensive savory breakfast item not found in Kuala Lumpur.

With another dish of beef rending which we saw hot in a wok, a piece of kueh and two coffee the total bill for a breakfast for two came to RM9 only. At the hotel the buffet breakfast would easily be ten times this amount. So, in such bad economy, do seek out good street food as not only are we contributing to our fellow Malaysians’ businesses, it ease pockets too

-SG