Feedmelah Travels! Babi Guling, Ubud, Bali, Uncle SG
[Bali]
” Uncle Soon Guan (SG) became a Chartered Accountant to avoid inheriting his father’s business as a noodle vendor which gives only a tough life.
He grew up with operators of all kind of street food (his father’s friends), which has given him an extensive knowledge and love for the subject. ”
There are two traditional Balinese dishes one should not miss when in Bali – one is Babi Guling, roast pork and the other Bebek Betutu, smoked duck. The word Guling comes from the way the pig is being barbecued, by rotating it “ guling” over the fire. Many types of Balinese spices are stuffed inside of the pig to roast. They include chopped garlic, ginger, candlenut, turmeric, coriander seeds, chilli padi and shallots.
The Menu
In many Internet write-ups and the menu of Ibu Oka Warung Babi Guling, the most famous in all of Bali, the dish has been described as suckling pig. This is not correct description as it is the adult pig being roasted not the baby one we see at expensive Chinese wedding dinners. Wonder if the wrong use of the word “suckling“ is due to confusion with word “succulent”, which rhymes alike?
In Ubud, one of the most touristy townships in Bali we found this 100 years old roast pork restaurant. Bali, unlike most of Indonesia is Hindu and this explains why this dish thrives on the island. Ibu Oka, a 62 year old grandmother took over from her father-in law the family business. Her two warung are found at Jl Tegal Sari No.2 ( Tel 0361 976345 ) and Jl Raya Teges ( Mobile 081 338 265706 ). The former outlet is Ibu Oka’s residence, a sprawling palace like complex of separate brick huts, dwelling houses for all her 6 children and grandchildren.
The restaurant dining areas are the open corridors of these brick huts with low tables quite similar to Japanese dining setting. The Jln Raya Tegas branch, currently being renovated is at the busier section of the road about 100m away. The kitchen is at the back of the complex which has sections for the roasting, dressing the pig and even a pen for pigs awaiting slaughter. The roasting is very traditional where the pig is rotated manually over wood fire. In an average day about six pigs are roasted. When there are take away orders from dinner functions and religious ceremonies the number can go up to ten pigs.
In the front of the restaurant female workers carve the pork meat western style and serve them on a plate. If you are looking for the Chinese roast pork cuts with skin, fat and lean layers, you will not find it in Babi Guling because the meat is carved out. Each portion gets a piece of the barbecued skin. You can also order hust the skin, priced the same as the roasted meat. The spicy stuffing used to roast the pig is added over the meat. Unlike the Chinese roast pork, the skin of Babi Guling is not punctured for roasting. Thus it is hard and not as crispy.
One can order just the meat or shredded meat with rice. We opted to have the meat separate. We ordered two different types of the meat, one belly meat, the other, meat from the cheek. We were delighted that we could choose our cuts, a customer’s freedom seldom exercised, we think. The meat is well cooked, sweet and juicy. We also ordered a barbecued trotter, not a menu item. The small trotter cost us only 10,000 Ruppiah ( about RM3 ). Each portion of the roast pork cost 30,000 Ruppiah ( about RM10 ). On the table are deep fried crispy pieces of pig skin eaten as an appetizer, an optional item.
For the size of the portion it is neither pricy nor cheap for this Balinese culinary experience. We found out that this dish is very common in streets. I believe the prices at the street vendors would be cheaper. As an ending remark, I would say, roast pork at Wong Kee in Pudu, anytime !
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